Nathdwara

Nathdwara is a town in Rajasthan state of India and is just 48 km from the nearby historic lake city of Udaipur in Rajasthan. This holy town is famous for its temple of Krishna and houses the unique 12th century idol of Krishna in one its more glorified manifestation popularly called as ShriNathji  . This modest temple attracts Krishna devotees from all over the world including various parts of India, but is significantly important to the Gujarati people of India and thus making it one of the wealthiest temples around. The Haveli of Shrinathji(as the temple is called), was once a royal palace of the Rajput rulers. Interestingly, the town is often fondly called as Shrinathji than its original Nathdwara mainly because of the Lord's overwhelming and ubiquitous presence on the minds and the economy of the people. During any major Hindu festival it's not uncommon to see crowds in gigantic proportions literally packing the entire town and the temple complex making the place full of joy and enthusiasm. Nathdwara overflows with culture and the Mewar region was in the forefront of creative art, architecture and music patronized by illustrious rulers like Maharana Kumbha and Maharana Sangha. It has particularly been known for its tradition of painting and visual culture. 

Prelude

The name of the town literally means the doorway to Nath (dwara: doorway). The town of Nathdwara is also known as the Apollo of Mewar and is famous all over Rajasthan as the residence of Shri Nathji, one of the most popular icons of Lord Krishna. The town may be small but has gained prominence as a great place of pilgrimage for the Pushtimarg Samprayada (Path of Grace) of the Vaishnava community, a doctrine created by a holy man Shri Vallabhacharya which is devoted to Krishna as a child. Nathdwara was built after Lord Shri Nathji had settled here. The town, lying on the right bank of the Banas River, is a lovely place to visit but should be avoided by all means on Janmashtami and during the Govardhana Puja when the place is overcrowded with pilgrims and locals. Shri Nathji is the form of Lord Krishna when he lifted the Govardhana Hill. It is also allegedly said that Shri Nathji is actually the original form of Lord Krishna better known as Nikunja Nayaka or the Lord of the Celestial Bower. He is shown with his left hand raised and the right hand closed in a fist and resting on his hip. His followers worship him both as Shri Radhanath or the Lord of Radha and as the mischievous child god Krishna. The idol of Shri Nathji is made from a large black stone and has several animals engraved on it – two cows, a snake, a lion, two peacocks, a parrot by the god’s head, three seated sages, one on the Lord’s left and the other two on his right and another snake below the sages. A flower garland made of stone around the deity’s neck resembles a black snake. The lord here is given much respect: his clothes and jewellery are changed six times a day between the prayer services.

History

Shri Nathji’s idol was brought to Rajasthan from Govardhana near Vrindavan to protect it from the hands of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb who in 1665 was bent upon vandalizing the area of Vrindavan. When the Mughal army came to Govardhana, the devotees of the Lord showed them the titles and gifts given to the temple by the previous Mughal rulers. The army commander then ordered the deity to be taken away from Govardhana. For almost six months the statue stayed in Agra after which it went on a journey to Mewar which took 32 months to complete. Rana Raj Singh of Mewar later brought the deity to Nathdwara around 1669. The decision to settle the Lord here at Nathdwara involves an interesting story. When the wheel of the chariot carrying the Lord got stuck in the mud at a place called Sihar, the Rana saw it as a divine sign that Lord Krishna wished to settle here. And thus a temple was built at this spot and the holy township of Nathdwara grew around the temple. The temple of Shri Nathji dating from 12th century BC is a simple structure and is built like a house, but simultaneously has grace, design and harmony. It has been designed in the lines of the house of Krishna’s father, Nanda Maharaj, in Vrindavana. The temple is thus also known as Nanda Bhavan or Nandalaya (the house of Nanda Maharaj). A kalasha (spire) tops it on which are seven flags along with the weapon of Lord Vishnu, the sudarshan chakra (discus). The temple has a black marble idol of Lord Krishna with his hand upraised lifting the Govardhana Hill. The god wears a large diamond beneath his lips, a gift from the Mughal emperor Akbar. There is an interesting story regarding the deity of Shri Nathji that forms the basis of a temple ritual. It is said that once the Lord had torn his clothes while rushing back to the temple to be on time for prayers. Since that day it has become a custom to first blow the conch and then wait for a few minutes before opening the altar doors so that the Lord can return from his frolicking without any hurry and thus save himself from the embarrassment that he had already faced once. Non-Hindus are not allowed to enter the temple, but yes, exceptions have been made for foreign visitors. The temple has over 500 cows amongst which one is honoured of being Shri Nathji’s own holy cow. This cow comes from a lineage that has served the Lord for ages and whose milk is only for the deity to drink. Milk from the other cows is used to make various sweets.

===Other Related Temples=== Nathdwara has several other temples dedicated to Madana Mohana and Naveet Priya, all located in the main Shri Nathji temple complex. The former deity was gifted to the temple by the wife of Maharana Fateh Singh of Udaipur. Naveet Priya temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna, or one who is fond of butter (naveet means butter and priya means lover). The Banamali Temple is also a Krishna Temple and is located to the right of the Shri Nathji Temple, while the Vitthalnath Temple is right opposite the entrance of the Shri Nathji Temple. The deity of this temple was previously located at Gokula in Brajbhumi or the land of the Braj. According to Indian mythology, Lord Krishna had spent his childhood days here at Gokula. The festivals of Nathdwara are also quite unique in nature. The largest is known as Annakuta, which is simply a continuation of the traditional worship of the Govardhana Hill as performed by the people of Vrindavana. It takes place a day before the Diwali, the greatest Indian festival that is celebrated with much fervour and vigour during which a hill is made of 2,500 kg of rice and is offered to the deity of Shri Nathji. And then the temple gates are closed which are opened only in the evening during the darshan (public viewing) of the Lord. The looting of the prasad (mainly sweet offerings to a deity) of rice from the annakuta (the rice hill) follows. Every single worshipper of the Lord joins in the looting with much enthusiasm. The month of April hosts the Rose Festival and the end of summer finds itself in the midst of the Rath Yatra. The deity is given a free ride around the town on a silver chariot and an offering of 100,000 mangoes are also made to him. Jhulana Yatra or the swing festival is celebrated here during June/July. Swings made of gold, silver, glass and flowers with the deity in it are put on display. Children specially find it fun to decorate the swing of the Lord. Janmashtami, celebrating the birth of Lord Krishna, is again a major festival and is observed with much fanfare. Other than its temples, Nathdwara is also famous for its Pichhwai paintings, which are very similar in theme to the thangka paintings of Ladakh and Tibet. Local Brahmin artists produce fine and intricate paintings on paper and cloth. Literally meaning ‘something at the back’, these are large paintings on cloth portraying Shri Nathji in various costumes and moods. The Lord is also shown in the forests surrounded by cows and gopinis (milkmaids). They depict the events and happenings in the god’s life and are frequently changed to create different moods depending on the occasion and ritual. Ink blue clouds and dancing peacocks represent Lord Krishna with his blue complexion while the cows symbolize the devotees craving for their Lord. The name pichhwai has been derived from the position of the painting behind the image of the deity in Vaishnava temples of the Pushti Marga sect devoted to the childgod Krishna. The purpose of the pichhwai was to narrate the Krishna stories for the uneducated, and the painted pichhwai of Nathdwara has now become the main export of the town. The paintings are devotional in theme and have their own appeal for the Lord’s worshippers. The Nathdwara artists have triumphed in the art of detailing, creating pichhwais that are almost like a patchwork collection of miniatures. The earlier paintings had used colours taken from crushed vegetables, like indigo and mineral colours such as lapis lazuli. However, commercial colours have now replaced them. Early pichhwais are rarely available as they are much in demand from foreign tourists and are sold at exorbitant prices. These are miniature paintings and can be used as cards as well. Most of these serve their purpose mainly as low quality cheap, souvenirs. Well known musicians who play and sing for gods also live and study here. Musical instrument shops, cottage industries and the street and temple life of Nathdwara offer a nostalgic glimpse of the bygone era of valour and religion. Apart from its pichhwais, Nathdwara is also a major centre for handmade terracottas. A small place near Nathdwara called Molela produces this extraordinary folk art. The tradition of terracotta in this area goes a long way back by about 2,000 years. Today only about 20 families practice this dying art. These terracottas depict various local deities and legendary heroes and are eye-catching more for its rustic splendour than for its tradition. They are hand made using primitive tools, have no molds and are painted in bright colours.

Eklingji which is located just 22 km from Udaipur Built in 971 A.D. is the beautifully sculpted temple complex with 108 temples within its high walls. The temples are dedicated to Lord Shiva, the presiding deity of Mewar rulers. The welted complex encloses an elaborately pillared hall or ‘mandap’ under a large pyramidal roof and has four-faced image of Lord Shiva in black marble. Some of the Structures date back to 15th Century . The main Temple made of Marble & Granite, has an enormous Double -Storied Hall under a vast pyramidal Roof. The regaining Deity is the four- faced Shiva carved in Black Marble. yet another Temple in the Complex is the lakulish Temple, built in 971 A.D. it is the only Temple of the Lakulish Sect in the whole India.

Best Season to visit: Ideally people should avoid visiting Nathdwara during summer months between April-June when it gets searingly hot and also avoid it during the peak festival periods when the town is pack with devotees. Winter months from November-March are the best period to visit the town and its vicinity.

Typically, devotee numbers drop off during the fortnight of "Shradh" in September-October